Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century. The word pafta is of Turkic origin-possibly entering the language via Iranian influence-derived from the Persian word bafta, meaning "woven," which evolved in Turkish to signify "plate." Today, the term is used in nearly identical forms in Romanian (pafta), Bulgarian (пафта), Serbian (пафте), and some Aromanian dialects (pafta), designating functional and ornamental clothing accessories used to fasten belts, girdles, or sashes, crafted from various materials and decorated using different techniques. The three buckles decorated in the polychrome enamel technique, preserved in the collection of the National Museum of History of Moldova, belong to the South-Danubian tradition and are dated to the late 19th - early 20th century.
Each buckle consists of two identical trapezoidal parts, their surfaces divided into three roughly equal registers, adorned with stylized vegetal motifs forming a metal lattice into which enamel is poured. The two parts extend into sharp angles at the ends, forming a triangle with the edge of the last decorative register, similarly ornamented. The enamel used to fill the floral motifs is black, turquoise, white, orange, green, yellow, and burgundy. The entire decorative field is framed by a beaded border.
On the reverse, both components retain a copper band riveted along the edge, used to fasten the ends of the belt. The fastening system, made by interlocking the hinges of the two parts and secured with a movable pin attached by a chain to a clasp fixed on one of the buckle pieces, is concealed by a rectangular plate (riveted with three pins to the body of the piece), with narrow edges ending in sharp angles, decorated in the same style and technique. Additionally, it features three circular settings with notched edges bent inward to hold centrally placed red and green glass paste. These settings are framed by a radiant, notched band.
The symbolism of the color palette encodes meanings and symbols, chosen for their believed magical powers. Red has always represented love, affection, and protection against curses and the evil eye; white symbolizes purity and spiritual and physical cleanliness; blue is symbolically associated with infinity, morning, new beginnings, and transformation; green represents destiny, hope, prosperity, balance, and rebirth, being linked to nature's revival each spring and to life itself.
Mysteries, myths and realities regarding the testament of Maria (Lupu) Radziwiłł
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. IX [XXIV], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie Chișinău, 2015
Abstract
The matter of Maria (Lupu) Radziwiłł’s will is one of little-known questions. Usually this issue was considered by historians in the context of property of the Radziwill family, or used by writers in literary fiction that gave rise to many myths. In this article the author examines this question in several ways: 1) The property brought by Maria (Lupu) Radziwiłł, a daughter of Vasile Lupu, as a dowry; 2) Wiano and wedding gifts; 3) Awards of Polish kings for life ownership of real property; 4) The property of her husband. The amount of the dowry of Maria is not exactly known, but according to documentary evidence, it numbered from 600,000 to 2000,000 zlotys: 450 thousand in money and 150 thousand in jewels (gold and silver). Besides, she received six starostwos (territorial units) for life tenure. After the death of Janusz Radziwiłł (1655), Maria tried to return the money and jewelry from her dowry, which was at the time under the custody of a cousin of her husband - Bogusław Radziwiłł, but he evaded the return of its property. Maria Radziwiłł has repeatedly appealed for help to the king, her relatives and tribunals, but could not get justice. She died in 1660, leaving a will. Her heirs managed to return 471,400 zlotys, which were given to 13 convents, seven churches, Slutsk School, Vilnius Boarding School, and 3 hospitals. 600 zlotys were unsubscribed to the service of forty Prayers. Monastery of the Holy Spirit in Vilnius got 200 thousand zlotys. The remaining heirs received from 400,000 to 100 zlotys. The closest relatives of Maria Radziwiłł – Gospodar Stefaniță, her half brother on the father, and her sister Ruxandra, Tymish Khmelnytsky’s widow, also actively fought for her property. The author concludes that the relatives did not appear in her will. Disputes regarding Maria’s property lasted until the beginning of the 19th century that later (and up to the present) gave rise to many legends and myths.
List of annexes and illustrations: Annex 1. Fragment of the document: Regestr skarbnice albo rzeczy Radziwiłłowny koniuszanki WXL która posyła z Królewca. 1670, Królewic (56 stron), str. 21v-22 (Vilniaus universiteto biblioteka Rankraščių skyrius). Annex 2. Fragment of the document: Археографический сборник документовЪ относящихся кЪ исторiи Северозападной Руси (Вильнюс 1870), 373-374, док. 91 Vilniaus universiteto biblioteka Rankraščių skyrius, F4-(A231)18003, 18004). Annex 3. Fragment of the document: Археографический сборник документовъ относящихся къ исторiи Северозападной Руси (Вильнюс 1870), 373-374, док. 91 Vilniaus universiteto biblioteka Rankraščių skyrius, F4-(A231)18003, 18004). Annex 4. Fragment of the document: Regestr skarbnice albo rzeczy Radziwiłłowny koniuszanki WXL która posyła z Królewca. 1670, Królewic (56 stron), str. 45 (Vilniaus universiteto biblioteka Rankraščių skyrius). Annex 5. Fragment of the document: Lietuvos Valstybes Istorijos Archyvas, F. 1280 (Radivilos 1416-1939), A. 1, nr. 599, 76 v (Zablódow 1581-1824). Fig. 1. Maria (Lupu) Radziwiłł (copy of the portrait by Matthäus Merian (Jr.) made by unknown artist. Dział Doku- mentacji Wizualnej i Digitalizacji. Muzeum Narodowe w Warszawie). Fig. 2. Janusz Radziwiłł, husband of Maria (Lupu) Radziwiłł (after Leybowicz 1758). Fig. 3. Maria (Lupu) Radziwiłł (after Leybowicz 1758). Fig. 4. Maria (Lupu) Radziwiłł (from colection of M. Berson). Fig. 5. Orthodox Church from Kedainiai (Keydani) (a-b - after Kedainiai Regional Museum; c-d - photo by the author). Fig. 6. Bogusław Radziwiłł, husband of Anna Maria Radziwiłł (after Leybowicz 1758). Fig. 7. Anna Maria Radziwiłł (after Leybowicz 1758). Fig. 8. Portrait of Maria (Lupu) Radziwiłł (unknown author) (https://www.google.MariaRadziwill). Fig. 9. Ludwika Karolina Radziwiłł (after Leybowicz 1758).
Lilia Zabolotnaia
Ştefan Lemny, Dimitrie Cantemir, un principe român în zorile Luminilor europene. A Romanian prince at the dawn of the European enlightenment. Un prince roumain à l’aube des Lumières européennes. Bucureşti: Editura Institutului Cultural Român, 2019, 186 p. + 59 ilustraţii. ISBN 978-973-577-737-1
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. XIII [XXVIII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Lilia Zabolotnaia
Helena Krasowska, Polacy w naddniestrzu. Świadectwo zanikającego dziedzictwa (Poles in Transnistria. A testimony to a disappearing heritage). Wydawnictwo: Studium Europy Wschodniej Uniwersytetu Warszawskiego, Warszawa, 2024, 350 str. ISBN 978-83-67208-22-2
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. XVIII [XXXIII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Lilia Zabolotnaia
The Movileshti and its descendants. Unknown pages
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. II [XVII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Lilia Zabolotnaia
New research areas in the modern historical science of Moldova. Results and Prospects
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VIII [XXIII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Lilia Zabolotnaia
Women and power in the history of the Asan dynasty
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VI [XXI], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century....
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
31 August 1989 St., 121 A, MD 2012, Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
