Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century. The word pafta is of Turkic origin-possibly entering the language via Iranian influence-derived from the Persian word bafta, meaning "woven," which evolved in Turkish to signify "plate." Today, the term is used in nearly identical forms in Romanian (pafta), Bulgarian (пафта), Serbian (пафте), and some Aromanian dialects (pafta), designating functional and ornamental clothing accessories used to fasten belts, girdles, or sashes, crafted from various materials and decorated using different techniques. The three buckles decorated in the polychrome enamel technique, preserved in the collection of the National Museum of History of Moldova, belong to the South-Danubian tradition and are dated to the late 19th - early 20th century.
Each buckle consists of two identical trapezoidal parts, their surfaces divided into three roughly equal registers, adorned with stylized vegetal motifs forming a metal lattice into which enamel is poured. The two parts extend into sharp angles at the ends, forming a triangle with the edge of the last decorative register, similarly ornamented. The enamel used to fill the floral motifs is black, turquoise, white, orange, green, yellow, and burgundy. The entire decorative field is framed by a beaded border.
On the reverse, both components retain a copper band riveted along the edge, used to fasten the ends of the belt. The fastening system, made by interlocking the hinges of the two parts and secured with a movable pin attached by a chain to a clasp fixed on one of the buckle pieces, is concealed by a rectangular plate (riveted with three pins to the body of the piece), with narrow edges ending in sharp angles, decorated in the same style and technique. Additionally, it features three circular settings with notched edges bent inward to hold centrally placed red and green glass paste. These settings are framed by a radiant, notched band.
The symbolism of the color palette encodes meanings and symbols, chosen for their believed magical powers. Red has always represented love, affection, and protection against curses and the evil eye; white symbolizes purity and spiritual and physical cleanliness; blue is symbolically associated with infinity, morning, new beginnings, and transformation; green represents destiny, hope, prosperity, balance, and rebirth, being linked to nature's revival each spring and to life itself.
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VI [XXI], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
The article uses a rather large number of sources concerning Armenian resettlement center in Kiliya (Danube Delta, in the Bessarabian historic district of Budjak). Most of them are presented by Armenian epitaphs, in total twelve ones, dated to 1646-1765 years. Twelve tombstones, carrying them, were located inside the church of St. Nicholas in Kiliya and possibly in its environment as well. Five of them, together with epitaphs are preserved to our times: three in the church garden and two in the Kiliya museum. Three of these five tombstones were discovered recently, and their epitaphs are new-found sources. Two others had been published earlier. The remaining seven tombstones and there epitaphs are known only from various publications.
The analysis of these twelve epitaphs reveals that the persons, mentioned in them, in their vast majority were the representatives of the second or third generation of the Armenians, who migrated here from various places of His- torical Armenia, and even, perhaps, from Persia in the early decades of the XVII century. So they had no relation to the old Armenian inhabitants of Kiliya, settled here earlier – in the course of the XI-XV centuries. The sources come to prove that the last ones had a church of St. Virgin (now the location is unknown), which existed up to the very beginning of the XIX century.
So we have to admit that the newly arrived Armenians made burials in the church of St. Nicholas and round it right after its construction in 1648 by the Moldavian ruler Vasile Lupu and, presumably, until their leaving for Grigoriopol in 1792. The epitaph dated 1646 suggests a burial made even during the construction of the church. The said indicates a direct relation of the last to the newly arrived Armenians and finds confirmation in N. Kleeman’s information (the 60-s of the XVIII century) that the Armenians had two churches in Kiliya.
List of illustrations: Table 1. Previously published Armenian inscriptions, relating to Кiliya. Table 2. Armenian epitaphs of the preserved tombstones. Photo 1. Marble tombstone with the inscription, dated to 1749. Was found in the churchyard of St. Nicholas on the north side. Photo 2. Marble tombstone with the epitaph in three verses. Historical museum of Kiliya district. Photo 3. The third verse, carved on the butt end of the plate. Photo 4. Marble gravestone with an epitaph in four verses. Carved decoration of the horizontal surface. Historical museum of Kiliya district. Photo 5. Marble tombstone with the inscription in four verses. Historical museum of Kiliya district. Photo 6. Marble tombstone with the epitaph, dated to 1755. Located east of the church of St. Nicholas, in the garden. Photo 7. Tombstone with the inscription, dated to 1653. Located east of the church of St. Nicholas, in the garden. Photo 8. Marble tombstones in the environment of the church of St. Nicholas, used as doorstep stones.
Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century....
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
31 August 1989 St., 121 A, MD 2012, Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
