Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century. The word pafta is of Turkic origin-possibly entering the language via Iranian influence-derived from the Persian word bafta, meaning "woven," which evolved in Turkish to signify "plate." Today, the term is used in nearly identical forms in Romanian (pafta), Bulgarian (пафта), Serbian (пафте), and some Aromanian dialects (pafta), designating functional and ornamental clothing accessories used to fasten belts, girdles, or sashes, crafted from various materials and decorated using different techniques. The three buckles decorated in the polychrome enamel technique, preserved in the collection of the National Museum of History of Moldova, belong to the South-Danubian tradition and are dated to the late 19th - early 20th century.
Each buckle consists of two identical trapezoidal parts, their surfaces divided into three roughly equal registers, adorned with stylized vegetal motifs forming a metal lattice into which enamel is poured. The two parts extend into sharp angles at the ends, forming a triangle with the edge of the last decorative register, similarly ornamented. The enamel used to fill the floral motifs is black, turquoise, white, orange, green, yellow, and burgundy. The entire decorative field is framed by a beaded border.
On the reverse, both components retain a copper band riveted along the edge, used to fasten the ends of the belt. The fastening system, made by interlocking the hinges of the two parts and secured with a movable pin attached by a chain to a clasp fixed on one of the buckle pieces, is concealed by a rectangular plate (riveted with three pins to the body of the piece), with narrow edges ending in sharp angles, decorated in the same style and technique. Additionally, it features three circular settings with notched edges bent inward to hold centrally placed red and green glass paste. These settings are framed by a radiant, notched band.
The symbolism of the color palette encodes meanings and symbols, chosen for their believed magical powers. Red has always represented love, affection, and protection against curses and the evil eye; white symbolizes purity and spiritual and physical cleanliness; blue is symbolically associated with infinity, morning, new beginnings, and transformation; green represents destiny, hope, prosperity, balance, and rebirth, being linked to nature's revival each spring and to life itself.
Artistic processing of metal in the Dniester-Prut interfluve. Typology of articles made by local jewelers
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VI [XXI], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Preceding studies on the origin and evolution of jewelry in Moldova have considerably expanded the area of our research, opening up new possibilities for the investigation. The aim of this study is to show the place and role of artistic metalworking techniques in Bessarabia of the 19th century, characterization and determination of the types of objects created using these techniques, and giving some examples, which illustrate them.
It should be noted that the discovery of physical and chemical properties of metals led to the emergence and development of methods of artistic processing of metals, which have evolved over the centuries. Some of them were eventually rarely used and were replaced by complicated professional technologies. Among the most claimed and, therefore, popular methods of metal processing one can name such techniques as casting, engraving, filigree, forg- ing, artistic enameling, etc. List of illustrations: Fig. 1. A. Marco. Bracelet “Memories”. Silver, carnelian. Russian Arts Fund. Fig. 2. Men’s ring. Gold, cubic zirconia. Chișinău Jewelry Factory „Giuvaier”. Fig. 3. Gh. Cojușnean. Signet ring. Silver, smoky quartz. Private collection. Fig. 4. A. Marco. Necklace. Silver, brass, semi-precious stones. Fig. 5. Gh.Cojușnean. Bell tower of the Cathedral of Chisinau. Private collection. Fig. 6. Gh. Cojușnean. Decorative wrought-iron grille. Sketch. Private collection. Fig. 7. Gh. Cojușnean. Jewelry . Collection of the National Museum of Archaeology and History of Moldova). Fig. 8. Lantern in the courtyard of the Bocancea Monastery.
Liliana Condraticova
Ion Xenofontov, Războiul din Afghanistan (1979-1989) în memoria participanților din Republica Moldova. Realitatea istorică și imaginarul social. Iași: Lumen, 2010, 544 p.
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. V [XX], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Лилиана Кондратикова
Le rôle et le place de femme-joaillerie dans l’évolution de l’art décorative du Moldova (1960-1990)
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. V [XX], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Liliana Condraticova
L’atelier d’orfévrerie du Chisinau dans les 1966-1972 année
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. III [XVIII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Liliana Condraticova
L’orfèvrerie ecclésiastique du Bessarabie (1812- 1827)
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VII [XXII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Liliana Condraticova
Archival documents as a source for the research of jewelry for church use
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VIII [XXIII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century....
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
31 August 1989 St., 121 A, MD 2012, Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
