Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century. The word pafta is of Turkic origin-possibly entering the language via Iranian influence-derived from the Persian word bafta, meaning "woven," which evolved in Turkish to signify "plate." Today, the term is used in nearly identical forms in Romanian (pafta), Bulgarian (пафта), Serbian (пафте), and some Aromanian dialects (pafta), designating functional and ornamental clothing accessories used to fasten belts, girdles, or sashes, crafted from various materials and decorated using different techniques. The three buckles decorated in the polychrome enamel technique, preserved in the collection of the National Museum of History of Moldova, belong to the South-Danubian tradition and are dated to the late 19th - early 20th century.
Each buckle consists of two identical trapezoidal parts, their surfaces divided into three roughly equal registers, adorned with stylized vegetal motifs forming a metal lattice into which enamel is poured. The two parts extend into sharp angles at the ends, forming a triangle with the edge of the last decorative register, similarly ornamented. The enamel used to fill the floral motifs is black, turquoise, white, orange, green, yellow, and burgundy. The entire decorative field is framed by a beaded border.
On the reverse, both components retain a copper band riveted along the edge, used to fasten the ends of the belt. The fastening system, made by interlocking the hinges of the two parts and secured with a movable pin attached by a chain to a clasp fixed on one of the buckle pieces, is concealed by a rectangular plate (riveted with three pins to the body of the piece), with narrow edges ending in sharp angles, decorated in the same style and technique. Additionally, it features three circular settings with notched edges bent inward to hold centrally placed red and green glass paste. These settings are framed by a radiant, notched band.
The symbolism of the color palette encodes meanings and symbols, chosen for their believed magical powers. Red has always represented love, affection, and protection against curses and the evil eye; white symbolizes purity and spiritual and physical cleanliness; blue is symbolically associated with infinity, morning, new beginnings, and transformation; green represents destiny, hope, prosperity, balance, and rebirth, being linked to nature's revival each spring and to life itself.
L’activité des orfévres de Moldova pendant les années ’70-’80 du XX-ém siécle (l’activité de la Fabrique de Bijoux de Chișinău)
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. IV [XIX], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Dans cet article l’auteur parle sur les objets d’orfévrerie de Moldova du II-moitié du XX-ém siécle et présente les principales traites de l’orfévrerie nationale. L’accent principal est mis sur l’étude des années 1972-1991, plus particulièrement de l’activité de la Fabrique de Joaillierie (de Bijoux) de Chișinău. Les orfévres ont travaillés a la Fabrique de Joaillierie de Chișinău, que a été fondé en 1972. Les bijoux sont confectionnés par les spécialistes réputés comme V. Alexeiko, Iu. Pavlov, V. Vasilkov, V. Fomin etc., qui ont utilisés l’argent, l’or et les pierres précieux. Ils ont confectionné des différentes pendentifs et des colliers, des anneaux et des bracelets, des boucles d‘oreille et des broches. Vu l’importance des bijoux comme objet de l’art et comme patrimoine historique, cet article présente beaucoup d’informations sur les métaux utilissés dans l’industrie des bijoux, la technique et à la technologie, les spécialisations (l’orfévre, le bijoutier et la bijoutière, le joaillier).
Liste de l’illustrations: 1. Les bijoutiers de la Fabrique de Bijoux de Chișinău. 2. Le prémier Bureau d’évaluation de Chișinău avec son prémier directeur V. Sunțov. 3. Des boucles d‘oreilles, l’argent. 4. Pendentif, l’argent, le corindon bleu. 5. Des boucles d‘oreille, l’or, le corindon rouge. 6. Anneau, l’argent, le lapis-lazuli. 7. Pendentif, l’or, le crisopraz.
Liliana Condraticova
Archival documents as a source for the research of jewelry for church use
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VIII [XXIII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Liliana Condraticova
Ion Xenofontov, Războiul din Afghanistan (1979-1989) în memoria participanților din Republica Moldova. Realitatea istorică și imaginarul social. Iași: Lumen, 2010, 544 p.
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. V [XX], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Liliana Condraticova
L’orfèvrerie ecclésiastique du Bessarabie (1812- 1827)
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VII [XXII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Liliana Condraticova
L’atelier d’orfévrerie du Chisinau dans les 1966-1972 année
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. III [XVIII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Лилиана Кондратикова
Le rôle et le place de femme-joaillerie dans l’évolution de l’art décorative du Moldova (1960-1990)
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. V [XX], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century....
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
31 August 1989 St., 121 A, MD 2012, Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
