Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century. The word pafta is of Turkic origin-possibly entering the language via Iranian influence-derived from the Persian word bafta, meaning "woven," which evolved in Turkish to signify "plate." Today, the term is used in nearly identical forms in Romanian (pafta), Bulgarian (пафта), Serbian (пафте), and some Aromanian dialects (pafta), designating functional and ornamental clothing accessories used to fasten belts, girdles, or sashes, crafted from various materials and decorated using different techniques. The three buckles decorated in the polychrome enamel technique, preserved in the collection of the National Museum of History of Moldova, belong to the South-Danubian tradition and are dated to the late 19th - early 20th century.
Each buckle consists of two identical trapezoidal parts, their surfaces divided into three roughly equal registers, adorned with stylized vegetal motifs forming a metal lattice into which enamel is poured. The two parts extend into sharp angles at the ends, forming a triangle with the edge of the last decorative register, similarly ornamented. The enamel used to fill the floral motifs is black, turquoise, white, orange, green, yellow, and burgundy. The entire decorative field is framed by a beaded border.
On the reverse, both components retain a copper band riveted along the edge, used to fasten the ends of the belt. The fastening system, made by interlocking the hinges of the two parts and secured with a movable pin attached by a chain to a clasp fixed on one of the buckle pieces, is concealed by a rectangular plate (riveted with three pins to the body of the piece), with narrow edges ending in sharp angles, decorated in the same style and technique. Additionally, it features three circular settings with notched edges bent inward to hold centrally placed red and green glass paste. These settings are framed by a radiant, notched band.
The symbolism of the color palette encodes meanings and symbols, chosen for their believed magical powers. Red has always represented love, affection, and protection against curses and the evil eye; white symbolizes purity and spiritual and physical cleanliness; blue is symbolically associated with infinity, morning, new beginnings, and transformation; green represents destiny, hope, prosperity, balance, and rebirth, being linked to nature's revival each spring and to life itself.
On finding of once lost building plates of the 15th century from the fortress of Belgorod
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VII [XXII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
For many years four Moldavian plates of the 15th century from the walls of the fortress of Belgorod were considered lost. The earliest publications of these most important epigraphic monuments (in 1848, 1889, and 1901) have long been a source for periodization of the defense complex of medieval Belgorod for several generations of its researchers. Without access to the originals, researchers had to trust to published translations, drawings, and photographs (not the best quality). In the beginning of 2013 these plates have been found in the collections of the Kherson Regional Museum. Even the preliminary work with them already revealed a family coat of arms of Moldavian Ruler Alexander II, as well as the fact that one of the plates, contrary to popular opinion in historiography, is not related to the construction of the fortress, which violates the generally accepted ideas about the chronology of the monument.
List of illustrations:
Fig. 1. Plan of the Belgorod Fortress: a - number of towers; b - location of plates with dates.
Fig. 2. Drawing of the plate of 1452 (Войцеховский 1972, рис. 3).
Fig. 3. The plate of 1440. Collections of the Kherson Regional Museum/without number (photo by the author).
Fig. 4. The plate of 1454. Collections of the Kherson Regional Museum /without number (photo by the author).
Fig. 5. The plate of 1476. Collections of the Kherson Regional Museum /without number (photo by the author).
Fig. 6. The plate of 1478-1480. Collections of the Kherson Regional Museum /without number (photo by the author).
Светлана Иванова, Андрей Красножон, Олег Савельев
The “Primorsky Boulevard” multi-layered site in Odessa: from antiquity to the Middle Ages
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. XV [XXX], nr. 1, Arheologie. Istorie Antică, Chişinău, 2021
Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century....
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
31 August 1989 St., 121 A, MD 2012, Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
