Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century. The word pafta is of Turkic origin-possibly entering the language via Iranian influence-derived from the Persian word bafta, meaning "woven," which evolved in Turkish to signify "plate." Today, the term is used in nearly identical forms in Romanian (pafta), Bulgarian (пафта), Serbian (пафте), and some Aromanian dialects (pafta), designating functional and ornamental clothing accessories used to fasten belts, girdles, or sashes, crafted from various materials and decorated using different techniques. The three buckles decorated in the polychrome enamel technique, preserved in the collection of the National Museum of History of Moldova, belong to the South-Danubian tradition and are dated to the late 19th - early 20th century.
Each buckle consists of two identical trapezoidal parts, their surfaces divided into three roughly equal registers, adorned with stylized vegetal motifs forming a metal lattice into which enamel is poured. The two parts extend into sharp angles at the ends, forming a triangle with the edge of the last decorative register, similarly ornamented. The enamel used to fill the floral motifs is black, turquoise, white, orange, green, yellow, and burgundy. The entire decorative field is framed by a beaded border.
On the reverse, both components retain a copper band riveted along the edge, used to fasten the ends of the belt. The fastening system, made by interlocking the hinges of the two parts and secured with a movable pin attached by a chain to a clasp fixed on one of the buckle pieces, is concealed by a rectangular plate (riveted with three pins to the body of the piece), with narrow edges ending in sharp angles, decorated in the same style and technique. Additionally, it features three circular settings with notched edges bent inward to hold centrally placed red and green glass paste. These settings are framed by a radiant, notched band.
The symbolism of the color palette encodes meanings and symbols, chosen for their believed magical powers. Red has always represented love, affection, and protection against curses and the evil eye; white symbolizes purity and spiritual and physical cleanliness; blue is symbolically associated with infinity, morning, new beginnings, and transformation; green represents destiny, hope, prosperity, balance, and rebirth, being linked to nature's revival each spring and to life itself.
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. I [XVI], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie Chișinău, 2007
Starting with 1470 Ştefan cel Mare builds a new strategy in the security politics of the eastern border of Ţara Moldovei. In the context of this strategy a new place was reserved to the city-fortress Orhei which became the central element in the protection of these borders.
During this period Ştefan cel Mare established the administration of Orhei, which was governed in the next three decades by prominent persons of the time, members of Sfatul Domnesc (Prince’s Council): Radu Gangur, Galeș, Vlaicu with his son Duma, Grozea Micotici etc. Due to their high status they contributed to the growing role that the fortress from Răut had to play in the general defense policy of Ţara Moldovei.
Orhei was a natural fortress endowed with supplementary fortifications built at different stages of its evolution, including in the period of Ştefan cel Mare’s rule, when with the help of the governors were built new fortification or repaired the old ones. Three fortifications date from this period: two big earthen and wooden wallums blocking the entrance in the settlement from the west and a stone citadel situated in the central part of Orhei city.
An argument supporting the importance of Orhei fortress in the politics of the sovereign Ştefan cel Mare is the endowment of the fortress with fire artillery, fact which was documented archaeologically by the discovery of two splendid bronze canons.
A new stage begins in the history of the fortress from Răut after the year 1494, when the governors of Orhei ceased to be members of Sfatul Domnesc, fact that lead to its gradual degradation and abandonment by the middle of the 16th century.
Mariana Gugeanu, Gheorghe Postică
The research, preservation and restoration of textiles discovered during the archaeological excavations undertaken at the Căpriana Monastery
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. XIII [XXVIII], nr. 1, Arheologie. Istorie Antică
Gheorghe Postică
The early medieval spirituality in the Prut-Nistru space
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. II [XVII], nr. 1, Arheologie. Istorie Antică
Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century....
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
31 August 1989 St., 121 A, MD 2012, Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
