Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century. The word pafta is of Turkic origin-possibly entering the language via Iranian influence-derived from the Persian word bafta, meaning "woven," which evolved in Turkish to signify "plate." Today, the term is used in nearly identical forms in Romanian (pafta), Bulgarian (пафта), Serbian (пафте), and some Aromanian dialects (pafta), designating functional and ornamental clothing accessories used to fasten belts, girdles, or sashes, crafted from various materials and decorated using different techniques. The three buckles decorated in the polychrome enamel technique, preserved in the collection of the National Museum of History of Moldova, belong to the South-Danubian tradition and are dated to the late 19th - early 20th century.
Each buckle consists of two identical trapezoidal parts, their surfaces divided into three roughly equal registers, adorned with stylized vegetal motifs forming a metal lattice into which enamel is poured. The two parts extend into sharp angles at the ends, forming a triangle with the edge of the last decorative register, similarly ornamented. The enamel used to fill the floral motifs is black, turquoise, white, orange, green, yellow, and burgundy. The entire decorative field is framed by a beaded border.
On the reverse, both components retain a copper band riveted along the edge, used to fasten the ends of the belt. The fastening system, made by interlocking the hinges of the two parts and secured with a movable pin attached by a chain to a clasp fixed on one of the buckle pieces, is concealed by a rectangular plate (riveted with three pins to the body of the piece), with narrow edges ending in sharp angles, decorated in the same style and technique. Additionally, it features three circular settings with notched edges bent inward to hold centrally placed red and green glass paste. These settings are framed by a radiant, notched band.
The symbolism of the color palette encodes meanings and symbols, chosen for their believed magical powers. Red has always represented love, affection, and protection against curses and the evil eye; white symbolizes purity and spiritual and physical cleanliness; blue is symbolically associated with infinity, morning, new beginnings, and transformation; green represents destiny, hope, prosperity, balance, and rebirth, being linked to nature's revival each spring and to life itself.
Research of a tumulus near the Bandyshovka village
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. IX [XXIV], nr. 1, Arheologie. Istorie Antică Chișinău, 2015
Abstract
The article is devoted to analysis of the results of archaeological investigations undertaken in one of the barrows (in all there were discovered fi ve tumuli) near the village of Bandyshovka, Vinnytsia region. The grave was robbed for several times, it was also partially destroyed as a result of extracting stones from its mound. Despite these interventions, it was possible to reconstruct the burial rite. Few finds indicate the development of intercultural relations between nomadic communities in the northern Black Sea region and forrest-steppe at the turn of the 9th - 8th centuries BC.
List of illustrations: Fig. 1. Geographical and situational location of barrows near the Bandyshovka village. Fig. 2. Bandyshovka: 1 - general plan; 2 - plan of the central part; 3 - stratigraphy by control edges. Legend: 1 - mainland clay ejections; 2 - black earth of the mound; 3 - soil from the fi rst predatory excavation; 4 - buried soil; 5 - mainland clay; 6 - charred wood; 7 - soil from the second predatory excavation; 8 - animal bones; 9 - human bones; 10 - stones. Fig. 3. Bandyshovka: 1 - remains of an animal sacrifi ce; 2 - remains of the stone cover. Fig. 4. Bandyshovka. General plan of the central part: 1 - bronze buckle “lunnitsa”; 2 - bronze beads; 3 - fragments of bronze vessel; 4 - clay spindle whorl. Legend: 1 - mainland clay ejections; 2 - wood of the ceiling; 3 - stone (sandstone); 4 - animal bones (grave goods in the mound); 5 - animal bones; 6 - human skull. Fig. 5. Bandyshovka. Profi les of the burial chamber: 1 - the profi le by the line А-А1; 2 - the profi le by the line Б-Б1; 3 - scheme of the vertical sections. Legend: 1 - mound; 2 - outburst; 3 - remains of wood; 4 - stone (sandstone). Fig. 6. Bandyshovka. Remains of stone structures. Legend: 1 - stones at a depth of 20-160 cm; 2 - stones in the fi lling of the burial chamber at a depth of 170-360 cm; 3 - vertically set stones as wall cladding. Fig. 7. Bandyshovka. Arrangement of the burial chamber: 1, 2 - horizontal section; 3 - vertical section. Legend: 1 - stones that were lying horizontally; 2 - stones that were arranged vertically; 3 - charcoals. Fig. 8. Bandyshovka. Findings from the fi lling of the burial chamber and from a predatory manhole: 1-8 - bronze beads; 9 - clay spindle whorl; 10-12 - fragments of the handles and lip of a bronze vessel; 13 - bronze buckle “lunnitsa”.
Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century....
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
31 August 1989 St., 121 A, MD 2012, Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
