Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century. The word pafta is of Turkic origin-possibly entering the language via Iranian influence-derived from the Persian word bafta, meaning "woven," which evolved in Turkish to signify "plate." Today, the term is used in nearly identical forms in Romanian (pafta), Bulgarian (пафта), Serbian (пафте), and some Aromanian dialects (pafta), designating functional and ornamental clothing accessories used to fasten belts, girdles, or sashes, crafted from various materials and decorated using different techniques. The three buckles decorated in the polychrome enamel technique, preserved in the collection of the National Museum of History of Moldova, belong to the South-Danubian tradition and are dated to the late 19th - early 20th century.
Each buckle consists of two identical trapezoidal parts, their surfaces divided into three roughly equal registers, adorned with stylized vegetal motifs forming a metal lattice into which enamel is poured. The two parts extend into sharp angles at the ends, forming a triangle with the edge of the last decorative register, similarly ornamented. The enamel used to fill the floral motifs is black, turquoise, white, orange, green, yellow, and burgundy. The entire decorative field is framed by a beaded border.
On the reverse, both components retain a copper band riveted along the edge, used to fasten the ends of the belt. The fastening system, made by interlocking the hinges of the two parts and secured with a movable pin attached by a chain to a clasp fixed on one of the buckle pieces, is concealed by a rectangular plate (riveted with three pins to the body of the piece), with narrow edges ending in sharp angles, decorated in the same style and technique. Additionally, it features three circular settings with notched edges bent inward to hold centrally placed red and green glass paste. These settings are framed by a radiant, notched band.
The symbolism of the color palette encodes meanings and symbols, chosen for their believed magical powers. Red has always represented love, affection, and protection against curses and the evil eye; white symbolizes purity and spiritual and physical cleanliness; blue is symbolically associated with infinity, morning, new beginnings, and transformation; green represents destiny, hope, prosperity, balance, and rebirth, being linked to nature's revival each spring and to life itself.
The destiny of woman in the history of Moldavia. Myths and realities about Catherine the Circassian – the second wife of the hospodar Vasile Lupu
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VII [XXII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
In this study the author came to some specific conclusions. In particular, it is safe to say that the marriage between Vasile Lupu and Catherine was far from accidental. As the sources of the era attest, all the details have been well thought out. Almost immediately after the death of his wife, Vasile Lupu sends the ambassadorial cortege to get his second wife, hence not respecting even the basic mourning traditions. One may also assume that perhaps in that situation government and political interests were high above his emotions. Vasile Lupu was an ambitious, far-sighted politician and a brilliant strategist. His plan was to expand the Moldovan boarders. He prepared his only son Ioan as future ruler of Wallachia. However, his plans failed after the son's death, and he was left without an heir. Vasile Lupu was well aware that he had to urgently resolve the dynastic crisis. He needed a young, strong and healthy wife, able to give birth to his heirs. The choice fell on Catherine the Circassian. How and under which circumstances this choice has been made remains an unsolved mystery. Unfortunately, we do not have any sources that could provide a reliable answer to this question. At the same time, we do not deny the well-known and hackneyed opinion in the historical literature that this marriage took place in a certain political context, for the Moldavian-Tatar mutual support in the political, military and economic spheres.
List of illustrations:
Fig. 1. Vasile Lupu, Catherine and their son Ştefan (Hlincea Monastery).
Fig. 2. Lady Catherine Cercheza (the Circassian), the second wife of Vasile Lupu (fresco in the Golia Church) (by Nicolescu 1970, pl. CXCIIIb).
Fig. 3. Maria Radziwiłł (daughter of Vasile Lupu) and Catherine, wife of Vasile Lupu (fresco in the Church of Trei Ierarhi, Iasi) (by Nicolescu 1970, pl. CCIII).
Fig. 4. Ioan, the son of Vasile Lupu (embroidery from the Church of Trei Ierarhi, Iași) (by Nicolescu 1970, pl. CXXXVIII).
Fig. 5. Lady Tudosca, the first wife of Vasile Lupu (fresco in the Church of the Trei Ierarhi, Iași) (by Nicolescu 1970, pl. CLXXIX).
Fig. 6. The Golia Church.
Lilia Zabolotnaia, Sorin Iftimi
Portrait of Maria (Lupu) Radziwill in the works of the Polish painter Korneli Szlegiel (1851)
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. X [XXV], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Lilia Zabolotnaia
The first testament of Maria Cantemir, from 1725
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. XI [XXVI], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Lilia Zabolotnaia
Nicolae Fuştei, Mitropolitul Gavriil Bănulescu-Bodoni 1746-1821: activităţi culturale şi ecleziastice. Chişinău: Biblioteca ştiinţifică (Institut) „Andrei Lupan”, 2021, 464 p. ISBN 978-9975-62-452-7
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. XVI [XXXI], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Lilia Zabolotnaia
The bounds of the private in the life of Antiochus Cantemir: Myths, speculations and realness regarding his secret family in Paris
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. XIV [XXIX], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Lilia Zabolotnaia
Ştefan Lemny, Dimitrie Cantemir, un principe român în zorile Luminilor europene. A Romanian prince at the dawn of the European enlightenment. Un prince roumain à l’aube des Lumières européennes. Bucureşti: Editura Institutului Cultural Român, 2019, 186 p. + 59 ilustraţii. ISBN 978-973-577-737-1
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. XIII [XXVIII], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie
Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century....
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
31 August 1989 St., 121 A, MD 2012, Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
