Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century. The word pafta is of Turkic origin-possibly entering the language via Iranian influence-derived from the Persian word bafta, meaning "woven," which evolved in Turkish to signify "plate." Today, the term is used in nearly identical forms in Romanian (pafta), Bulgarian (пафта), Serbian (пафте), and some Aromanian dialects (pafta), designating functional and ornamental clothing accessories used to fasten belts, girdles, or sashes, crafted from various materials and decorated using different techniques. The three buckles decorated in the polychrome enamel technique, preserved in the collection of the National Museum of History of Moldova, belong to the South-Danubian tradition and are dated to the late 19th - early 20th century.
Each buckle consists of two identical trapezoidal parts, their surfaces divided into three roughly equal registers, adorned with stylized vegetal motifs forming a metal lattice into which enamel is poured. The two parts extend into sharp angles at the ends, forming a triangle with the edge of the last decorative register, similarly ornamented. The enamel used to fill the floral motifs is black, turquoise, white, orange, green, yellow, and burgundy. The entire decorative field is framed by a beaded border.
On the reverse, both components retain a copper band riveted along the edge, used to fasten the ends of the belt. The fastening system, made by interlocking the hinges of the two parts and secured with a movable pin attached by a chain to a clasp fixed on one of the buckle pieces, is concealed by a rectangular plate (riveted with three pins to the body of the piece), with narrow edges ending in sharp angles, decorated in the same style and technique. Additionally, it features three circular settings with notched edges bent inward to hold centrally placed red and green glass paste. These settings are framed by a radiant, notched band.
The symbolism of the color palette encodes meanings and symbols, chosen for their believed magical powers. Red has always represented love, affection, and protection against curses and the evil eye; white symbolizes purity and spiritual and physical cleanliness; blue is symbolically associated with infinity, morning, new beginnings, and transformation; green represents destiny, hope, prosperity, balance, and rebirth, being linked to nature's revival each spring and to life itself.
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. V [XX], nr. 1, Arheologie. Istorie Antică
The article is devoted to variety and character of the Scythian Amazon’s armaments. Archaeological finds of weapons and equipment of militant women is almost identical to the arms from the written and artistic sources. In general, women panoply completely consistent with the armament of the Scythian troops. Amazons preferred missile weapon, and almost did not use melee weapons. Amazons were studying the military art from an early childhood.
List of illustrations: Fig. 1. Images of armed Amazons: 1-2 - on the golden Calaf from the kurgan Bol’shaja Bliznitsa; 3 - on red-figured vases. Fig. 2. Images of Amazons on red-figured pelikai. Fig. 3. The types of arrowheads from the burials of armed women: 1-2 - kurgan 9 near Staryj Merchyk village, 3-4 - kurgan 6 near Nowoje village; 5 - kurgan 34 from Chertomlyk cemetery; 6 - kurgan 13 of BOF group. 1, 4, 5 - bronze, 2 - iron, 3, 6 - wood. Fig. 4. Weapon from the burial mounds of Amazons: javelin-heads (1, 4) and spear points (2, 5), butt (3), slingshot stones (6). 1-3 - kurgan 13 from Steblev cemetery; 4-6 - kurgan 5 near Zelenoje village. 1-5 - iron, 6 - stone. Fig. 5. Scale armor from kurgan 5 near Zelenoje village. Fig. 6. Details of armor from kurgan 5 near Zelenoje village. Fig. 7. Details of bridle from kurgan 13 near Steblev village.
Elena Fialko, Yurii Boltryk
Textiles from Scythian burial complexes
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VII [XXII], nr. 1, Arheologie. Istorie Antică
Елена Фиалко
The armed women of Early Iron Age in the Northern Pontic: social aspects
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. VI [XXI], nr. 1, Arheologie. Istorie Antică
Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century....
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
31 August 1989 St., 121 A, MD 2012, Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
