Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century. The word pafta is of Turkic origin-possibly entering the language via Iranian influence-derived from the Persian word bafta, meaning "woven," which evolved in Turkish to signify "plate." Today, the term is used in nearly identical forms in Romanian (pafta), Bulgarian (пафта), Serbian (пафте), and some Aromanian dialects (pafta), designating functional and ornamental clothing accessories used to fasten belts, girdles, or sashes, crafted from various materials and decorated using different techniques. The three buckles decorated in the polychrome enamel technique, preserved in the collection of the National Museum of History of Moldova, belong to the South-Danubian tradition and are dated to the late 19th - early 20th century.
Each buckle consists of two identical trapezoidal parts, their surfaces divided into three roughly equal registers, adorned with stylized vegetal motifs forming a metal lattice into which enamel is poured. The two parts extend into sharp angles at the ends, forming a triangle with the edge of the last decorative register, similarly ornamented. The enamel used to fill the floral motifs is black, turquoise, white, orange, green, yellow, and burgundy. The entire decorative field is framed by a beaded border.
On the reverse, both components retain a copper band riveted along the edge, used to fasten the ends of the belt. The fastening system, made by interlocking the hinges of the two parts and secured with a movable pin attached by a chain to a clasp fixed on one of the buckle pieces, is concealed by a rectangular plate (riveted with three pins to the body of the piece), with narrow edges ending in sharp angles, decorated in the same style and technique. Additionally, it features three circular settings with notched edges bent inward to hold centrally placed red and green glass paste. These settings are framed by a radiant, notched band.
The symbolism of the color palette encodes meanings and symbols, chosen for their believed magical powers. Red has always represented love, affection, and protection against curses and the evil eye; white symbolizes purity and spiritual and physical cleanliness; blue is symbolically associated with infinity, morning, new beginnings, and transformation; green represents destiny, hope, prosperity, balance, and rebirth, being linked to nature's revival each spring and to life itself.
Tyragetia, serie nouă, vol. IX [XXIV], nr. 2, Istorie. Muzeologie Chișinău, 2015
Abstract
This article is the result of research of the museum's collection of postcards on the theme of the First World War, which was carried out in connection with the centenary since the war began.
At the present stage of the evolution of historical science a special role belongs to the documentary sources that had previously been "less required", including illustrated postcards. At the beginning of the 20th century postcards know peak of their evolution. Being very popular, mobile and accessible, during the war they fulfilled several functions. In addition to performing the functions of postal items, they become an accessible form of propaganda and a source of supplementing military budget.
The collection of picture postcards relating to the First World War comprises three categories of documents. The first one includes black-and-white postcards with representations of weapons and ammunition, scenes of the battlefield, soldiers' lives in their leisure hours, the work of the military medical service, life behind the front.
The second category includes illustrated postcards calling on the public to support the army. These are color postcards of high quality, with a lot of printed text on the back side, containing, in addition to the publisher's data, the call to the public to support the army in the fight against the enemy.
The third category contains postcards with caricatures, which occupied a special place during the First World War, as they were used as an effective weapon against the enemy, the propaganda support both on the battlefield and in the rear.
Chronologically, these postcards were printed and circulated between 1914 and 1916. There are cards with blackand-white and color images that were printed in Russia by printing houses and private publishers, Red Cross soci eties, as well as the Moscow satirical magazine "Novoe Krivoe Zerkalo" ("New Distorting Mirror").
The article contributes to the study of the history of World War II in terms of the illustrative material, as well as provides information about the authors and publishers of postcards.
List of illustrations: Fig. 1. Postcard Prayer before the battle. Released by the St. Nicholas Community of the Russian Red Cross Society (NMHM, FB-21336-10).
Fig. 2. Postcard (reverse side). Every 2-3 sold cards provide an opportunity to make a respirator to protect against poison gases. Released by the St. Nicholas Community of the Russian Red Cross Society (NMHM, FB21336-10). Fig. 3. Postcard. 116. Cannon on a position. Released by G.V. Gruzintsev, the town of Luga, 1915; Phototype Scherer, Nabholz & Co., Moscow (NMHM, FB-21336-8). Fig. 4. Postcard. 54. Battery on a position. Released by G.V. Gruzintsev, the town of Luga, 1915; Phototype Scherer, Nabholz & Co., Moscow (NMHM, FB-21336-7). Fig. 5. Postcard. 127. Hair cutting near the dugout. Released by G.V. Gruzintsev, the town of Luga, 1915; Phototype Scherer, Nabholz & Co., Moscow (NMHM, FB-21336-9). Fig. 6. Postcard. 24. In the war. Sending wounded men from the regimental dressing station to the hospital. Released by O. Adamovich, Minsk; Phototype Scherer, Nabholz & Co. (NMHM, FB-20579). Fig. 7. Postcard. In Galicia. In the safe shelter during the shelling. Released by O. Adamovich, priest of the 64 Kazan Infantry Regiment; Phototype Scherer, Nabholz & Co. (NMHM, FB-20578). Fig. 8. Postcard. Bandaging of the wounded during the battle. Russia, 1915 (NMHM, FB-20577). Fig. 9. Postcard. Shells for the army the glory and prosperity of Russia. Released by the Skobelev Committee of the Assistance to the Wounded Soldiers. Petrograd, 1915 (NMHM, FB-7788-30). Fig. 10. Postcard. When the motherland needed guns, the factories are working day and night. Released by the Skobelev Committee of the Assistance to the Wounded Soldiers. Petrograd, 1915 (NMHM, FB-7788-31). Fig. 11. Postcard. French long-range gun. Released by the Skobelev Committee of the Assistance to the Wounded Soldiers. Petrograd, 1915 (NMHM, FB-7788-32). Fig. 12. Postcard. Romanian troops in the First World War. Balloon, 1916 (NMHM, FB-7788-33). Fig. 13. Postcard. On the strengthening of funds of the Northern Railway Committee to assist soldiers. Russia, 1914 (NMHM, FB-7788-5). Fig. 14. Postcard (reverse side). Take part in the accumulation of funds, buy war bonds. Russia, 1916 (NMHM, FB-7788-23). Fig. 15. Postcard. Help the Army in its great work and sign up for the military 5½ loan. Released by the Office for Small Loans. Petrograd, 1916 (NMHM, FB-7788-19). Fig. 16. Postcard. Anyone who signs up for military 5½ loan will help our heroes to destroy the enemies. Released by the Office for Small Loans. Petrograd, 1916 (NMHM, FB-7788-22). Fig. 17. Postcard. Sign up for the military 5½ loan. Released by the Office for Small Loans. Petrograd, 1916 (NMHM, FB-7788-21). Fig. 18. Postcard. Military 5½ loan. The more money, the more weapons and ammunition, the closer to victory. Released by the Office for Small Loans. Petrograd (NMHM, FB-7788-23). Fig. 19. Postcard. Military loan. Forward for the Motherland! Released by the Office for Small Loans. Petrograd, 1916 (NMHM, FB-7788-20). Fig. 20. The reverse side of the postcards released by the Office for Small Loans. Petrograd, 1916 (NMHM, FB7788-20). Fig. 21. The reverse side of the postcards released by the Skobelev Committee of the Assistance to the Wounded Soldiers. Petrograd, 1916 (NMHM, FB-7788-30). Fig. 22. Postcard. Caricature (color). Russian hen, Slavic chickens and German thieves. Released by "Novoe Krivoe Zerkalo". Moscow, 1914 (NMHM, FB-5935-11). Fig. 23. Postcard. Caricature (color). The prudent son. By L. Zolotarev. Petrograd, 1914 (NMHM, FB-59353). Fig. 24. Postcard. Caricature. The spirit of hatred and evil. By A. Tzenter. Petrograd, 1914 (NMHM, FB-59356). Fig. 25. Postcard. Caricature (color). Homeward. Russia, 1914 . (NMHM, FB-5935 12). Fig. 26. Postcard. Caricature (color). Finally, I am in Russia. Released by P. Khmelevsky. Russia, 1914 (NMHM, FB-5935-2). Fig. 27. Postcard. Caricature. "The Italian fig sign". Released by "Novoe Krivoe Zerkalo". Moscow, 1916 (NMHM, FB-5935-4). Fig. 28. Postcard. Caricature (color). On the way to Paris by 11 August. Russia, 1916 (NMHM, FB 59358). Fig. 29. Postcard. Caricature. What a pity that the world consists of only two hemispheres. Released by "Novoe Krivoe Zerkalo". Moscow, 1916 (NMHM, FB-5935-7). Fig. 30. Postcard. Caricature (color). Wolf in the kennel. Released by "Nov'", Kiev, 1914. (NMHM, FB-5935-10). Fig. 31. Postcard. Caricature. After the defeat of museums... "nah Fatherland". By A. Tzenter. Petrograd, 1914 (NMHM, FB-5935-8).
Fig. 32. Postcard. Caricature (color). Delusion of grandeur. Wilhelm II. Released by A.F. Postnov's Factory. Moscow, 1914 (NMHM, FB-59355). Fig. 33. Postcard. Caricature. Wilhelm the Bloody (see from a distance). Russia, 1914 (NMHM, FB-5935-1). Fig. 34. The reverse side of the postcard sent from Sevastopol (October 2, 1914) to the village of Răduleni (Guberniya of Bessarabia). Addressee: P.F. Sutulova (NMHM, FB-5935-5).
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Buckles (paftale) are an almost indispensable element of traditional women's dress in the Southeastern European area, particularly in the Balkans, and have been in use over a long period, from the 14th to the 20th century....
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
The National Museum of History of Moldova takes place among the most significant museum institutions of the Republic of Moldova, in terms of both its collection and scientific reputation.
31 August 1989 St., 121 A, MD 2012, Chisinau, Republic of Moldova
